Joelle Thomson

Wine writer and award winning wine author


What I am drinking, reading and savouring each week

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Is the gap closing in wine styles?

New whites from Elephant Hill

If asked to name the best Sauvignon Blanc in Aotearoa New Zealand, which wine - or region - springs to mind first? 

It might be Marlborough but a new release from Hawke's Bay gave me pause for thought this week - a day after I was taken to task for immediately naming a long list of Marlborough wines. Not that I am saying the new release in this column is New Zealand's top Sauvignon Blanc but it is a convincingly outstanding wine that makes me wonder if the gap is closing between regions and thoughtful winemakers, when vintage conditions allow.

When it comes to important varietals that grow with relative ease in cool climates - such as Sauvignon Blanc, this question is worth pondering. Great vineyard sites are fewer in number and often already planted in grapes, which is seeing growing numbers of winemakers scale up their search for cool climate vineyard sites with favourable aspects in a time of climate change.

The two new white wines from Elephant Hill that found their way into my tasting glass this week both put a crisp foot forward for New Zealand's second largest wine region; Hawke's Bay; a place where Sauvignon Blanc is as significant as Chardonnay (in terms of numbers), even if it is not as famously well known. 

Elephant Hill reviews

2025 Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc RRP $26.99

Highly perfumed, zesty and full of vibrant fresh tropical fruit flavours - think: pineapple, mango, passionfruit and peach - this Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc greets the glass with lifted tropical aromas and shows a softer, more integrated acidity than a typical Marlborough sauvignon. The texture is clean and focused, finishing crisp and dry with lingering citrus lift and a hint of white nectarine. This is an excellent Sauvignon Blanc from a great year in Hawke's Bay; 2025.

2024 Elephant Hill Hawke's Bay Chardonnay RRP $34.99

This Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay offers a sunny, open and rounded style balanced by subtle restraint. Aromas of baked apple, white peach and a gentle spice are framed by fresh acidity that keeps the wine lively. It’s a polished, approachable chardonnay that blends comfort with white fruit flavours and a lingering finish.